Povijest penjanja


PENJANJE postoji od kad postoji i ljudska vrsta. U zadnjih nekoliko desetljeća se formira kao moderan sport iako ga većina zaljubljenika koji se njime bave radije naziva stilom života. To je aktivnost koja teži savršeno usklađenim fizičkim ali i mentalnim sposobnostima, koja se odvija u dvorani ali i u prirodi, koja je idealna svakodnevna aktivnost za djecu i starije, za rekreativce i profesionalce, za ovisnike o adrenalinu ali i one kojima do adrenalina uopće nije stalo. Penjanje je u biti druga riječ za slobodu i zato se onima koji se u njemu nađu zauvijek uvuče pod kožu i postaje vječna strast.

Podaci govore da je penjanje kao sport, ali rekreativni ne natjecateljski, nastao davne 1880. Prvi solo uspon učinio je penjač Walter Parry Haskett Smith na Napes Needle, te tada počinje era sportskog penjanja. 1903 bilo je oko 500 aktivnih penjača te više od 200 penjačkih klubova većinom u Americi.
Krajem 1970-ih godina javlja se aktivnije u Francuskoj koja je mjesto osvajanja vrhova planina i stijena.

Davne 1934. Pierre Allain ispenjao je jedan od prvih bouldera u Fontainbleau, boulder penjalištu kod Pariza, «L’Angle Allain» V2
Prvo natjecanje u sportskom penjanju održano je u Bardonekiji 1985g., to je bilo natjecanje na umjetnoj stijeni.

Prvo natjecanje u Svjetskom kupu održao je CEC.

1991g. organizirano je prvo SVJETSKO PRVENSTVO u Frankfurtu u Njemačkoj i tada počinje velika era natjecanja u svim kategorijama te veliki bum u cjelom svijetu.

USTROJ U SVIJETU:
1987.godine UIAA (Union International de Associations d"Alpinisme) slavna organizacija koja upravlja svime u alpinizmu, planinarenju, penjanju, osniva CEC (Commission de l"Escalade de Competition) sa zadatkom da upravlja i razvija novonastali sport tj. odsjek SPORTSKO PENJANJE
1997.g. UIAA osnovala ICCC (International Council for Competition Climbing)

Jedan od najbitnijih datuma i godina za razvoj sportskog penjanja je 27.siječanj 2007. godina, kada je u Francuskoj osnovana IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) kojoj je glavni cilj unaprijeđenje i razvoj sportskog penjanja u cijelome svijetu i sa zadavoljstvom možemo reći da su u tome uspijeli.

Te iste godine AGFIS (organizacija za sport u cjelome svijetu) priznaje IFSC kao novog člana. Ono najbitnije za sportsko penjanje što je IFSC postigao desilo se 5.travnja: WGA uvrštava sportsko penjanje u program Svjetskih igara 2009 Kaoshiung World Games, te iste godine u prosincu IOC daje priznanje novosnovanoj federaciji IFSC primanjem u olimspijski pokret.


SPORTSKO PENJANJE U HRVATSKOJ:

U Hrvatskoj: prvo državno natjecanje održalo se na Marijanu 1986.g pod nazivom „MARIJAN 86“,kojeg je organizirao AO HPD "Mosor" i to je bilo ujedno i četvrto održano natjecanje u svijetu, ali na prirodnoj stijeni. Godinu dana kasnije održava se natjecanje na Marijanu, na Veloj dragi na Učki te na našem „POKOJCU“ 1987. pod nazivom stijena Podrutskog Gupca, a organizirili su ga Zagrepčani. Nažalost to su bila posljednja održana natjecanja na prirodnoj stijeni.
Tada se desila stanka (zamiranje) tokom domovinskog rata da bi se poslije počela održavati natjecanja u disciplini boulder u sportskim dvoranama.
Organizacija koja upravlja svime u vezi planinarenja, alpinizma i sportskog penjanja u Hrvatskoj naziva se Hrvatski planinarski savez HPS, koja je u svijetu priznata 1991.g. u Budimpešti. U sklopu HPS-a ustrojena je nedavno Komisija za sportsko penjanje, KSP.
KSP je izvršno vrhovno tijelo koje upravlja sportskim penjanjem u Hrvatskoj. Preko KSP-a organiziraju se sva službena natjecanja u Hrvatskoj, kao i odlasci na službena natjecanja izvan Hrvatske.

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